Ann doesn’t even roll the dough out, just smushed into the bottom and smushed and spread over the top. And I felt myself lucky that she needed the extra hands for five pies and dinner in an hour and a half, because this recipe is a reminder how simple the best recipes are, how amazing tomatoes and mayo are together, how easy a simple crust of butter and flour and milk. She had a house filled with 10 people, and so she decided to make five (because they are delicious for days, hot or cold), more pies than she’d ever made.Īlso she was teaching me, her husband, how she makes tomato pie, itself remarkable in that she typically asks me with her expression alone, to leave the kitchen because she is cooking and does not want to feel judged. Wednesday evening, in a rented house on the Westport River, was tomato pie time for Ann. And to appreciate how food keeps us connected to our many selves, and to our many loves. Maybe they are still, somehow, close.Īnd following this epiphany, she goes on to make a tomato pie, one to relish as tomato juice runs down the chin, one to remember pies of 10, 20, 30 years ago. I am smiling now, at Colwin, wherever she is, at all the people and all the things I lost, because in this moment I feel that maybe we never really lose the things we love. Of course, the essay is not about tomato pie, it’s about loss, lost family, lost time, and yet reconciling it, through the this gift of a summer, that we can and do go on. This is a remarkable essay, which I often use in classes on food writing, because it accomplishes so much, a whole life, in just 2,500 words-her entire family, her becoming a flight attendant, how she became a writer, the death of her brother, the death of her father, an ode to the writer Laurie Colwin, the death of an aunt from a wisdom tooth extraction, her job waitressing during college, her three children, one of whom dies, and, obviously, tomato pie. So begin’s Ann Hood’s essay on tomato pie, collected in her Kitchen Yarns: Notes on Life, Love, and Food as well as Best Food Writing 2014. And not just any tomato pie, but Laurie Colwin’s tomato pie, a feast of tomatoes and cheese and basil baked into a double-biscuit crust. In other words, it’s the perfect confluence of ingredients for tomato pie. It is that time in summer when the basil starts taking over my yard and local tomatoes are finally ripe, red and misshapen and so juicy that after I cut into one I need to wipe down the counter.
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7/1/2023 04:51:30 pm
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